Celtic Jewelry Materials Guide

By Stephen Walker, Metalsmith

Celtic Jewelry Materials Guide

A craftsman's guide to the metals, finishes, and gemstones used in handcrafted Celtic jewelry.

Metals: Sterling Silver | Gold: 14K, White & Rose | Platinum

Craft & Finish: The Antique Finish | Lost Wax Casting

Care & Gemstones: Caring for Your Jewelry | Our Gemstones

Also on this site: Celtic Design Guide — knotwork, crosses, and symbolism

As a craftsman, silver was the first precious metal I ever worked with. In the early 1970s I began creating kilt accessories and bagpipe mounts from sterling silver. As my skills advanced, my emphasis turned to bowls, teapots, and chalices — and eventually to the Celtic design jewelry that Walker Metalsmiths is known for today. The metal is not just a medium: it is a partner in the craft. Understanding it matters.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver teapot, 1979 — made while studying at Syracuse University

Sterling is an alloy that is at least 92.5% pure silver — frequently marked "925." Silver is the whitest of all metals. Pure silver is very soft; sterling makes more durable jewelry and has better working properties. It is the standard in North America, Britain and Ireland. The 7.5% that is not silver is traditionally copper.

Our casting alloy, from which almost all of our Celtic jewelry is made, is a de-oxidizing alloy of copper, boron and a silicon deoxidizer. This alloy is tarnish resistant and less likely to cause skin problems than traditional copper-alloyed sterling.

Silver is very cooperative under the craftsman's hammer or as a casting material. The word "smith" comes from the archaic word "smite." A silversmith smites silver with his hammer. Wrought silver is shaped by hammering, bending, rolling, and stamping. Cast silver is formed by melting the metal to liquid (1800 degrees F or 970 degrees C) and pouring it into a mold. Walker Metalsmiths casts all of our sterling silver jewelry on site at our Andover, NY studio to ensure quality and purity of materials. Our sterling silver is nickel free and we do not rhodium plate any of our work unless otherwise noted.

Silver and Tarnish

Sterling silver will tarnish with time and exposure to humidity. The most common catalysts that accelerate darkening are chemicals: naturally occurring amino acids in your skin, sulphur from the atmosphere, chlorine from pools and cleaners, and contact with other materials. Moisture and sunlight can affect silver as well. Store your sterling silver in a clean, dry, closed location like a jewelry box or bag to slow tarnishing. Tarnish is a dirty word, but patina is an art word — the antique finish of a dark patina in the background with bright polished highlights gives depth and contrast to the artistic details.

Gold: 14K, White, and Rose

Gold alloys are described in terms of 24 parts, or karats. 14 karat (carat in the old country) is 14 parts gold and 10 parts alloy — 58.3% gold, the most common standard in the US. 9 carat (37.5% gold) is used frequently in Britain and Ireland; 18 karat (75% gold) and 22 karat (91.6% gold) are also available. Generally speaking, the lower karats are harder and more brass-like; the higher karats are softer and have more gold color and shine. Our work is substantial enough that we are confident an 18 karat ring will hold up almost as well as a 14 karat ring. Unless you do very heavy or abrasive work with your hands, wear should not be much of a consideration in choosing karat.

White Gold

White gold is alloyed with nickel and is substantially harder than yellow gold. We offer only 14K white gold. Some people are allergic to nickel — if you are, you probably already know it. Because silver has been historically used for Celtic jewelry, white gold is frequently chosen to give a historical look with the durability of a much harder metal.

Rose Gold

Rose gold casting — copper alloys create the warm blush tone

Rose, red, and pink gold are alloyed with copper, which gives them their characteristic warm tint. 14-karat rose gold is still 14-karat gold — it is the alloying metals that change the color. The warm, rose-colored tint provides a vintage, romanticized aesthetic that has captured hearts for over a century.

These contrasts in color and material have a fine tradition in Celtic jewelry. The Ardagh Chalice — a masterpiece of early Irish metalwork — is silver overlaid with gold and other materials, demonstrating the Celtic love of metallic contrast. Later Celtic jewelry, particularly from the 19th-century Irish Celtic Revival, often used silver pieces with rose-gold highlights.

Platinum

Platinum is a precious metal that is very hard and heavy. We use an alloy that is 95% platinum. It is almost as white as silver, hypoallergenic, very hard, will not tarnish, and very expensive. Platinum is very dense and about 80% heavier than 14K gold.

Ordering in Platinum

We do not cast our own platinum and have difficulty changing the size of a platinum ring, so if you choose platinum please plan at least a month lead time. To estimate the cost of a platinum ring, multiply the 14K cost by 3.5. A 50% deposit is charged when the order is placed and the balance when the order is complete.

The Antique Finish on Silver

The antique finish we use on our silver highlights the design and makes it easier to read. A solution of tellurium dioxide and hydrochloric acid is applied to the metal and rinsed off. Then the piece is polished to highlight the design, but the background is left dark. This is not like permanent enamel and will often get lighter or disappear entirely over time.

We have also developed a matte finish on the background that makes an excellent contrast with the raised pattern without any chemical antique finish. You can get silver rings without the antique finish if you prefer. Gold does not naturally oxidize, so an antique finish is a bit artificial on gold pieces.

Irish hallmarks on a Dublin teapot, c. 1840, showing lion passant sterling mark and date letter

Irish hallmarks on a Dublin teapot, c. 1840 — showing lion passant (sterling) and date letter

Caring for Your Celtic Jewelry

Proper storage, care, and cleaning can help your jewelry look its best and ensure its wearable condition. All our jewelry is backed by our Walker's Guarantee, which covers repairs for one year from purchase.

Things to Do

Clean sterling silver by lightly wiping with a polishing cloth
Store jewelry in a clean, dry, closed location like a jewelry box or pouch to prevent tarnish
Have all prong-set stones checked by a qualified jeweler at least once per year
Remove your jewelry before swimming — chlorine can damage gold, silver, and precious stones
Use soaps, lotions, and perfumes before putting on your jewelry to prevent buildup

Things Not to Do

Do not wear jewelry when using household chemicals and cleaners
Do not clean damaged jewelry — bring to a qualified jeweler for evaluation first
Do not polish with abrasive cloth or scrubbers
Use caution with silver polish on antique-finish jewelry — some polishes may remove the dark background
Remove rings during sports, gardening, or abrasive activities where jewelry may snag or scratch

Silver and Skin: Green or Black Staining

Silver will sometimes cause skin staining, usually black or green. In most cases this causes no physical harm and is an aesthetic rather than a health problem. The amino acids in your skin can accelerate oxidation. When it is hot, the metal is more reactive and perspiration creates a chemically reactive environment.

Our deoxidizing alloys have significantly reduced these complaints. Some customers have had good luck polishing the inside of their rings daily for the first week or so: as the copper near the surface reacts and is polished away, the problem lessens. If you have an actual rash, blistering, or irritation, take the jewelry off. If you have an allergy to the metal, we accept returns within 30 days.

Our Craft: Lost Wax Casting

The majority of our work is crafted at least in part using the lost wax casting process — an ancient technique that transforms hand-carved wax into precious metal jewelry. As craftsmen we enjoy sharing the process with our customers and anyone interested in learning how Celtic jewelry is made.

Our Gemstones

As a little kid I collected rocks the way many kids do. Unlike some, I never lost that childhood wonder and carried on through my teenage and college years. Being a jeweler gives me a good reason — or excuse, as my wife might say — to keep hunting. We work with opals, sapphires, garnets, diamonds, rubies, amethyst, turquoise, and more.

When possible, I prefer to buy gemstones at trade shows. The vast variety of quality, value and the unexpected make it a satisfying experience. Unlike having material shipped in from distant suppliers, the choices are immediate. Price and quality are more easily compared. Going to events like the Tucson Gem Show is a great way to develop new contacts, but also to keep up with suppliers we have known for many years.

Opals selected by Stephen Walker at the Tucson Gem Show

Opals from the Tucson Gem Show — each stone selected by Stephen Walker

Explore Our Handcrafted Celtic Jewelry

All of our Celtic jewelry is cast on-site in Andover, NY in sterling silver, 14K yellow, white, and rose gold.

Celtic Rings → Celtic Pendants →

Explore More

SILVER! — A Silversmith's Guide to the White Metal — Stephen Walker's deep dive into silver: history, chemistry, and craft
About Our Metal — sterling silver specifications, tarnish causes, and cleaning
The History and Romance of Rose Gold — rose gold's Celtic heritage and Victorian revival
How to Care for Your Celtic Jewelry — practical guide to cleaning, storage, and maintenance
Lost Wax Casting Process — how wax becomes precious metal jewelry
Rock Collecting at the Tucson Gem Show — how we source our gemstones

Stephen Walker, Celtic jewelry artisan and founder of Walker Metalsmiths

About the Author

Stephen Walker has been handcrafting Celtic jewelry in Andover, NY since 1984. He began his silversmithing career in the early 1970s and has worked in sterling silver, gold, and platinum for over five decades.

Learn more about Stephen & Susan Walker →